Homemade Decals 1st Attempt - AUTOBACS

I got a load of vinyl off the lads who come in to sign-write our vans at work, so I've been planning, in true ScoobyLab styler, to have a go at making my own graphics and decals for the car - when I get round to it. Couldn't wait to make a test piece though, so I spent an hour of my bank-holiday bashing up this little Autobacs number...

Ok, so under a microscope you can see they're a bit rough around the edges, but for glancers they look the part. They weren't hard to make either. I got the logo and reversed the image horizontally. This way I can stick it onto the back of the vinyl so I can see what I'm cutting then, when the stickers are applied, the letters show up the right way round on the shiny side. As for the cutting I just used sharp scissors and a Stanley-knife.

Who are AUTOBACS? Well, they're basically just the Japanese Halford's. The Japs are crazy over their cars though, so they revere these stores like gods and proudly show off Autobacs decals, so I thought it'd be a good talking point for discerning modders, although anyone who's switched on enough to mention it would probably ask why I'd made my own stickers.

Check out the awesome AUTOBACS site - http://www.autobacs.com/world/

Here's a great vid from an ancient Top Gear with [a young and funny] Clarkson browsing round the Autobacs flagship store in Tokyo.

Relocating the Stock-Aerial Part 1

I know Scooby's aren't designed with aesthetic perfection in mind, but its a shame they follow the utilitarian Japanese convention of bolting a tacky plastic thing on afterwards with an 80's pull-out style aerial in, usually on the driver's A-pillar. Even the 60-reg Toyota Hilux coming in at work, which are pricey trucks, still have these things and, while I'm sure they function superbly, they don't half look crap.

I've been planning to re-locate the aerial onto the roof of the Scoob for a while now and change it from a tacky telescopic metal one to a BMW-style 'shark-fin', but you could fit a rally-style mast-aerial, a bee-sting or a GPS-box lookalike in the same way. Its not a difficult job at all, but a brave enough one for me to struggle to get round to it. Doesn't look like it'll be any time soon, with all the other jobs mounting up [power-steering is gonna need looking at first I think], but I reckon its a sound idea so I'll write it up anyway.

Removing the Stock Aerial:

Unclip and remove the plastic cover on the driver's A-pillar inside the car and cut the wires going to the aerial-mount.

Remove the two screws holding the aerial-mount with a flat-head screwdriver and prize the plastic-mount away from the a-pillar.

Bridge the holes in the a-pillar with metal-filler, or just stick about 5 layers of black-tape over the back of them, then fill the outer layer with P38 body-filler. Its only a tiny area so shouldn't be hard to sand, prime and paint-match.

Installing the New Aerial:

Inside the car, unclip and pull down the roof-lining. I'm still unclear on how to do this so, for now, refer to the Body section of the workshop manual here - http://www.scoobylab.co.cc/2010/12/manuals.html.

Find a suitable spot and drill a hole wide enough for the new-aerial's mounting-stud. Drill from the outside in and it's easy to dent the roof so drill slowly, use plenty of oil on the bit and it might be worth starting with a small pilot-hole to make sure the location is accurate.

Place the mounting-stud of the new-aerial through the hole and stick the base down onto the roof. Tighten the nut onto the mounting-stud inside the car.

Extend the cut-off wires at the a-pillar, if necessary, across the inside of the roof to meet the cable on the new-aerial and tape it into place. It's likely the new unit will have a male FM-aerial connector on it [same as the one in the dash that plugs in to the head-unit], so you could cut it off and hard-wire it, but for a nicer job I'd recommend getting a female FM-aerial socket from Halford's for a couple of quid and crimping it to the a-pillar wire. That way the aerial can be un-plugged easily if some idiot decides to nick your new bee-sting and you have to a quick replacement.

Clip the roof-lining back up into place and replace the plastic-cover to the inside of the a-pillar.

Lowering the Roof Height

Its not a mod I would have thought of for a Scooby, but I spotted this absolutely mental Blobeye STi in a mag [built by Jap shop C.S Hiro http://www.cshiro.co.jp/], with its roof lowered! I've only ever seen this done to classic cars, mainly American metal, although I've seen a few Vauxhall Victors with it done in the UK, but as it turns out the modern Scooby shares a key bit of design with the aforementioned that makes it an ideal motor to do a roof-chop on!

The Impreza has sashless-doors, which of course means that there is no frame around the window glass and that means no alterations need to be made to the doors at all. When the roof height drops, the windows will still rise up and fill the gap perfectly, with the lower part of the glass permanently sitting in the door. In theory the four windows would each fit flush even if the roof wasn't perfectly straight. Chopping the height out of 4 normal doors separately, then matching them to the roof would be a difficult task and this makes it a super-expensive job for most motors. Examining the Scoob though, it looks like all you'd need to cut are the 6 roof pillars and this makes it a much easier job, one you could do at home in fact with enough time and ingenuity.

THEORY:

Roof-Chop:

Wind the windows fully down. Remove the front and rear windscreen, along with both wing-mirror chassis, the roof-lining, a-pillar covers, parcel shelf and unbolt the front seat-belt holsters off the b-pillars.

Sand the a and c-pillars down to the bare metal.

Mark along the base of each roof pillar and cut straight through into the cabin, without deforming the metal. You could probably do it with a small grinder, but an oxy/acetylene 'plasma-cutter' would be ideal to cut a neat curve.

Lift the roof off the car. Mark around the neck of each pillar at a suitable height for the roof to be lowered by [probably about 3 ins.] and cut them again, then file down the remaining pillar ends, as well as the cut-edges on the car body, to as flat an edge as possible.

Lower the roof back onto the car, marry the pillars to their bases and weld completely around where they meet. Grind the welds down and rub them flush to the body with emery cloth. Build up around the visible joins with metal-filler and P38-filler and sand them in a smooth line between the body and pillars. Re-paint the a and c-pillars. Shorten the plastic pillar-covers to fit and replace the roof-lining etc.

Roll-Cage:

** The rigidity of the roof is probably compromised quite a bit by this process so its essential to fit a roll-cage really to stiffen things up, but primarily for safety. If this isn't a major concern you could get away with just bolting or welding in a steel-tube down the inside of the b-pillar from floor to roof.

Windscreens:

With the roof sorted, the real challenge is to make the windscreens the right length to fit. Normal Scooby windscreens are about £200+ so a tailor made narrow one probably isn't cheap, but I've found TW Windscreens in Southampton who will make one. On the other hand, I've seen cut windscreens lying around at work done using a great grinding-disc that only damages about half a cm around the line of the cut. We reckon you could cut the bottom away from the windscreen and seal the fractured edge with epoxy-resin. Then, when the windscreen is sealed in place, make a plastic or rubber sill to overlap the bottom edge [which seems to be the case on the C.S Hiro car anyway] and a smaller one for the rear.

Seatbelts:

Belts are a major safety thing, so if you've made the mounting-holes on the b-pillars too low then its worth scrapping the lap-belts and installing racing harnesses, which the standard STi and post MY96 seats will take. Otherwise you'll need to drill a new hole further up the b-pillar if possible and thread it with a fairly large tap, but the bolt might need shortening as the gap behind gets narrower at the top.

Quick Bumper Fix

I must have got a bit over zealous on the way to work on Thursday morning [racing Big Alex in his Isuzu Trooper 3L], because my back-bumper started to make its way off the car, luckily just as we were pulling up at the gate. The small bolt that holds the corner of the bumper by the wheel-arch has broken free of its rusting mount, leaving the right-side edge hanging loose and letting the bumper become wayward. The plastic-mount on the bumper has obviously always had a break in it, probably after that wheel-arch's scuff with a gatepost, but it was still clinging on. Once the bolt had made its way out of the body though the bumper didn't put up much resistance and the bolt is long gone. All this means there's no meat left to get a cable-tie round so I had to just drive carefully and pray the bumper didn't drop completely before the fix.

Everyone suggested just banging a self-tapping screw through into the metal, but that'd be too easy and no good if I need to take the bumper off in future. Instead I rustled around in the ever fruitful skip for a few minutes and found a nice allen-head bolt, two shiny washers and a brand new nyloc-nut. Outstanding. There's another small hole in the bumper just behind the split one, so I marked where it meets the body-lip and drilled a 5mm hole through the metal. Even with the car tilted on the curb I could barely get my hand into the gap between the tyre and wheel-arch, so I could barely hold the allen-key steady while I got the nut on. In the end I just managed to get the nut a few turns into the nylon, but enough to keep the bumper on until today when [with no help from the weather!] I got the wheel off and tightened it up.

>>> Oh and yeah, I do notice that the rust has creeped out from under the wheel-arch. There's a bit of bubbling too so both arch-lips are going to need rubbing-down and spraying again as soon as the weather turns reasonable, just hope it doesn't get much worse in the meantime. The moral of the story here kids is ALWAYS lacquer as soon as possible after spraying and wax-oil/seal the underside if its somewhere like the wheel-arch! Nightmare.

Carbon Conundrum + Bodywork Update

Spotted this amazing 100% carbon-fibre bodied, Japanese-built Blobeye STi in a mag at work - yeyah! It's got me thinking about carbon again, but I've only got a small patch of the stuff left [about 12x12ins.], which wouldn't even cover a wing-mirror, so I'll have to find something small to fab-up while the weather is too cold to move forward with the car itself.

I have thought about styling, but so far the favourite option is to finish off my alloy-plate cold-air shield with carbon instead. I do have the plate pieces cut and getting hold of a TIG-welder [special light-metal welder that doesn't just rip alloy apart] was something I dearly wanted to have a go at, but to fill the winter gap and get on I may as well bring some more carbon to the engine bay.

And I must finish that darn wind-diffuser!! SHEESH!

** Also I'd like to say a massive big-up to Dave from Howarth's Bodyshop in Pensby [who do various bits on our firm's vehicles] for passing on a couple of cans of Zinc-Primer [which I never have enough of] and Filler-Primer, which I've not used before. Apparently it's the mutts-nuts for filling in the tiniest gaps and smoothing the paint-surface, so we'll have to give it a whirl if I find time to re-spray the wheel-arches. Respect! Will have to ask Dave about spraying my black front-bumper silver so I can replace the damaged one... **

Wing-Mirror Fixed!!

The wing-mirror had obviously been knocked off at some point in the past and it was held on a by a massive wrap of strong tape that looked ghastly. I recently decided to replace that with nicer looking black-tape, but it just wasn't up to the job. Rather than chuck loads more tape on I decided it was time to just bite the bullet and fix it as I can't lacquer the car this weekend.

The metal mount has sheared clean off, but there's no damage at all to the wing-mirror casing and the electric swivel still works so it seemed a bit of a waste to buy a whole new unit [starting at about £30 on eBay for a used one] when there's probably a way to fix it. The metal mount is only alloy so I figured it wouldn't be hard to drill a hole in both parts and get a bolt through. There's plenty room in the casing to hide the bolt and for a real tidy touch I drilled through one of the existing screw-holes on the door-mount so the bolt-head is also hidden away, which also made drilling a lot easier. The screws only hold the plastic-casing onto the mount and there are 3, so I think I can afford to lose one.

Hiding the bolt-head means the work I've done is invisible, but I had to use a 4mm bolt to fit the head up into the existing screw-hole. Even a slim steel bolt won't snap easily, but I would have liked to use a fatter one just to reinforce against those wheelie-bin knocks as it can't swivel inwards, but it couldn't with the black-tape anyway so I'll have to carry on being careful. I was beginning to think the job was suspiciously easy when I hit my first snag - tightening the bolt without the nut spinning around. To do this I had to remove the mirror-glass and motor-bezel to make a small gap to slide a spanner through and grip the nut. The plastic around the nut was still very constricting and the spanner had to be poised perfectly on the edges of the nut to get a few turns before it gave and had to be repositioned, which was frustrating but I got there in the end so money well saved.

As you can see from the ice on the windscreen my fingers were numb and blue but I think it was worth it to finish both this and the spotlamp in one weekend. It may not swivel or be as sturdy as a replacement, but its just as good as the black-tape and the mirror looks positively brand-new, so if it lasts me for as long as I have the car then result!

New Spot-Lamp Sorted!!

Wow, the weather really has turned bitterly cold this week and spray-work is out of the question. I think that to get the lacquer on before xmas now will need somewhere indoors to do it, but I did find a real spot-light this week to replace the fake one so, even though my fingers were numb and purple I just had to get it on. After all, we might have fog again tomorrow...

A while ago I got hold of a replacement front-bumper from a mint import car and luckily it holds the bracket I needed for my missing spot-lamp, which made finding the new one much easier. I will be replacing the whole damage-repaired bumper eventually, but the new one is black so I'll have to get it painted first, its a bit too big a spray job for me I reckon.

The spot-lights haven't been cheap on eBay lately, with a few on for £40+ and loads of pairs starting at £70. The lenses have Subaru etched along the bottom and the back of the lamp is angled, so you can't switch sides and have to rely on finding the one you need. I spotted a near-side one for £30 delivered from smr-subaru and thought what the hell. It took a week to arrive, but its in great condition [much better than my current one] and has a blue/rainbow type halogen bulb in it, which is nice, although I'll have to buy a matching one for the other side!

FITTING:

All 3 of the bolt-holes in the old bracket had broken off studs in them so the whole thing had to be replaced, but luckily the bracket just slides down off hooks and can be lifted out without removing the bumper. It slides out between the gap in the bumper corner so the under-tray doesn't even need to come off. The old wiring socket for the spotty has been hanging loose next to the wheel-well, so I gave it a good clean out with brake-cleaner and electrical solvent before plugging in and testing. The new bracket is off an import too and as you can see from the pic its in great condition with perfect threads so I bolted the new lamp in place with 3 more of those trusty alloy allen-bolts from the skip at work. The top-right bolt also holds the corner-indicator in place again, which is great as its been held on with a giant ball of ally-tape sincebefore I bought the car. I'm chuffed to bits to have this boxed off at last, the car is starting to look a lot less ratty - just gotta fix that broken wing-mirror and the body is complete!!

N/S/R Wheel-arch Touch-Up

There's always been a few bubbles in the paintwork just behind the near-side rear wheel-arch, but they have grown a little bit over the year. Last week I pressed the blisters a bit and dirty water dribbled out so I decided it was best to act on the corrosion fast before the worst of the weather hits. I really should lacquer the work I did in June on the off-side rear wheel-arch when I finish this side off too, it shouldn't have been left so long - the paint is holding up so far, but best not to chance it with frost round the corner.

I started by carefully breaking the bubbled paint off with a sharp knife. The paint and primer had bubbled clean off the metal panel and was quite tough to break off still, but a few weak spots were obviously letting nasties in and there was just a little rust beginning under the lip at the bottom. Luckily the panel itself was holding up pretty well and wasn't showing any signs of actual rust, but there was lots of black pitting that went down quite deep into the surface.

I then rubbed down the area about an inch around the corrosion with 140-grit paper to get rid of the paint. The black pitting was a different story and it took quite a bit of rubbing with emery-cloth to get down the clean metal. I was still left with a few deep craters, so I managed to eek out one last mix from my tube of P38 filler and did a thin skim over the whole area to make sure even the smallest pits were filled, before sanding it flush to the metal. I then threw on a quick coat of zinc-primer and sanded it flush with some 600-grit Wet/Dry paper soaked in slightly soapy water, so I don't get panty-lines in the paint. I did start spraying the silver-coat on Sunday, but got a bit over-zealous and the paint ran something awful. Its back to work I go too, so I'll have to give it a quick rub down and finish the silver-coat next weekend, as well as lacquering this and the other wheel-arch - lets get some closure on the spray-work!!

More detailed descriptions of the rubbing, filling and painting processes can be found in the previous posts Painting the Bonnet Lip and Re-Inventing the Wheelarch Pt. I.

General Update + Insurance

Dismayingly there's just nothing new in Scoob world lately. Life is being an expensive ride at the moment and the colder weather makes it too daunting to do any serious mechanical work or painting of the underside, which I wanted to do before winter really. The car is also running brilliantly at the moment so there's nothing thats screaming out to be done. I have managed to sort out a few small, but niggly, faults though and re-insured the car without paying the astronomical amount Elephant wanted for my renewal...

INSURANCE:
I'd already paid for a year on my Beemer at just shy of £400 a few months before the Scooby arrived, so Elephant.co.uk agreed to change my policy over to the Subaru for the same amount again, making the premium total £804. When I received my renewal quote this year though they wanted £1145, nearly another 4 ton more again! I rang them saying I'd found a cheaper quote as I have done before and asked them to get the price down a bit, but they were having none of it this time and could only get it down to £999. I've been with Elephant for 5 years and I like the yellow envelopes you know, but they didn't even seem bothered about keeping my custom so I hit up CompareTheMarket.com again and got a very nice quote of £714 from a new upstart company called 1st Central, which, for fully-comp, with a 27 yr-old driver on a Group 17 car, is very, very good. The customer reviews for 1st Central are a mixed bag - they're not very nice if you crash and it's your fault apparently, especially if you were drunk [duhhh!] - but I thought for that saving it couldn't hurt to try them so lets see how we get on!

BOOT-LEAK:

During the incredible bout of wet-weather we had earlier in the month I noticed a damp patch of carpet in the boot-install. I took out the spare-wheel to find a small paddling-pool in the wheel-well. At first we thought it was coming through the boot-lid seal so I began taping sections up to track the leak with no success. After a couple of scans round the forums though I discovered its a common problem with after-market lights, like my Morette LED ones, where they haven't been bolted in tight enough. I'd only checked that the bolts were finger-tight before and when I got a spanner on them I found that they were all pitifully loose and took some turns to get them graunched. I should have clocked onto this much earlier as its becoming clear that the lad who bolted all these parts on before my time was a bit of an animal, with his roof-scoop held on with bathroom sealant and whatnot. Anyway, the wet weather has now returned, but I'm glad to say the leak hasn't and the spare-wheel well is now dry as a bone. Piece of cake!

LOOSE FRONT SIDE-LIGHT CLUSTER:

I replaced the n/s bulb and snapped the plastic-bracket that holds the top of the corner-cluster in place while screwing it in. Ever since then the cluster has wobbled about and often needs pushing back into place. There isn't much to stick tape on to so I've just left it for months, but with nothing better to do on the car I've painstakingly drilled a hole through the back of light-lens itself to provide somewhere to get a cable-tie through to hold it in and its now as sturdy as the other bolted side - you'd never know.

Carbon Fibre - Rear Wind-Diffuser - Part I

With the mould looking pretty good it was time to look at the different types of carbon-fibre covering to wrap it in. There are dozens of stick-on imitation carbon sheets available, but I didn't want it to look fake even under close inspection so I had to go for real stuff. I've seen people making real carbon parts for ages and it doesn't look too hard, but the price of it used to be outrageous. Not any more it seems, as I've found sheets of all sizes of raw carbon-fibre on eBay, often being cheaper than vinyl stick-on sheets of the same size! My diffuser is about 60cmx40cm and I didn't want to worry about matching the weave up with separate sheets, so I went for a half square-metre to cover it in one go, which worked out at £19.50 delivered for 100% twill-weave carbon, whereas the 3M-vinyl sheet that contains no carbon at all [but does look a LOT like it] was £27.99 delivered - nearly a tenner more expensive! Needless to say I went for the real carbon - from a firm called [grp_supplies], unfortunately no longer trading under that name and I can't find the new one on eBay :(

OK, so I had to buy some clear epoxy-resin to set the real fibre as well and it turned out to be dearer than I imagined. I could only find small tubes of the stuff for less than ten quid, but the amounts [and the cost] jumped up massively after that. I needed quite a bit for the diffuser too, so I grabbed the best deal I could find - 1kg of resin and 0.5kg of hardener for £28 delivered, which was good value even though they arrived in unmarked and unsealed bottles. They work great though - from a firm on eBay called [CreativeResinSolutions].

I originally intended to just cover the stiff plastic mould and re-fit it, but the carbon provides its own stiffness so the weight of the tough plastic van-undertray just seemed unnecessary. The thick plastic must weigh a couple of kg on its own so even the spaceship-light carbon would be a useless increase and the back end is already well planted with that soundsystem...

This meant I had to get the carbon off the plastic after it had set, which turned out to be stupidly simple. A professional would, of course, produce a fibre-glass cast of the part and use it as an inward-mould for the carbon. Not only would this mean forking out more money, I'd also have to completely re-design the fins on my diffuser so, with the carbon already there, I thought of a workaround, which I'm sure would be howled at by any respectable composite-engineer, but here is how I prepared the mould - after a few tests on a small dash-panel [here] I found this to be the easiest way of quickly fabbing up my carbon part :

PROCESS:

1. Smear the part in a thin film of vaseline. Apply a layer of cling-film to the part, sticking it in place with the vaseline. Repeat the process for several layers of cling-film.

2. Mix a good chunk of 2 parts epoxy resin with 1 part hardener and wait about 15 mins. until it starts to go tacky.

3. Paint a thin layer of the epoxy over the cling-filmed part.

4. Slowly drape the carbon-fibre sheet over the part and press it into shape. The tacky resin should make it easier to hold things in place. Tightly fold the fibre over the edges of the part and tape them in place on the back.

5. Mix some more epoxy-resin and immediately paint a good thick coat over the part, leaving it to dry for at least 8 hours.

**The part should pop easily off the mould by this point once the edges are trimmed and most of the cling-film can be peeled off. You can keep them together until the part is finished, but there is probably a higher chance of it bonding to the mould.

6. Give the part a quick sand with some rough paper. Remove any sharp points, resin drips and bumps. Don't worry about making the surface too even yet, but try not to go down into the carbon.

7. Mix more resin and apply another thick coat to the part, leaving it to dry for at least 24 hours this time. [One nice, thick coat should do it, but repeat process 6 & 7 if it looks too thin or uneven.]

8. Sand the part down to an even[ish] coat, then use finer grade papers to give it a smooth surface and apply the finishing touch to best show off the weave - either a coat of normal car spray-lacquer for the wet-look, or using T-cut / rubbing-compound to buff it to a dull racing-car shine.

As you can see I only got as far as the final coat. I've rubbed it down a bit, but still haven't found time to finish it, so I'll have to cover that in another post.

All things considered though, not a bad try for a beginner! It certainly looks the part - the carbon weave looks very authentic, but the dodgy moulding technique does have it's pitfalls. The heat of the epoxy drying causes bubbles in the cling-film to expand, which doesn't affect flat areas, but has made the back-edge of the diffuser a little sloppy round the fins, although it has given the skinny fins a nice rounded profile. A pro-diffuser would cost most of a grand remember, so for about £20 and a couple of afternoons work I think its turned out superbly! We'll have to wait and see if its a go when its finished and fitted.

Carbon Fibre - Making the Mould

Right its really time I wrote up some of the carbon fibre stuff because I'm desperate to move on to things like the brakes. The whole carbon idea started when I found an old plastic-undertray from a modern Ford Transit van at work. I thought it could help to fix where my front-undertray has snapped, but as I examined it I could see potential in the chunky design for greater things...

Rear Wind-Diffusers [like the one on the right] are common on race cars and are basically just a flat tray beneath the rear bumper with down-pointed fins for the air to flow past and give the car more downforce. They are almost exclusively made of all carbon-fibre and that means they aren't cheap either - any I can find for the Impreza start at £700 and go up, so considering they would have no real use for road driving except the style factor, they are out of reach of any sane modder.

Looking at this plastic Ford Transit undertray though I could see the beginnings of my own custom-built imitation diffuser, so I cut it into a flat piece and taped it under my back bumper. Its not quite as wide as I would have liked, but the edges do fit nicely within the number plate recess, so I thought what the hell, it can't hurt to have a crack at it.

With the main piece fitting OK and looking promising, I cut four equal sized fins from the off-cuts and just superglued them into place along the bottom of the tray, which conveniently has four vertical lines along it as a guide. I figured that whatever type of carbon wrapping I used later on would hold them in place properly and besides, this thing was never going to be an aerodynamic aid, so I'm not too bothered about structural integrity as long as it looks the part.

Its definately got that diffuser feel and I can't see it making the aero-dynamics of the car any worse [provided the leading edge is flush to the bottom of the car so it doesn't turn into an air-brake, of course!], so I decided to swot up on my carbon-fibre coverings...

Fake Spotlight Update

I thought putting aluminium-tape over the back of the fake lens would make it look more realistic, but I feel it has done the opposite.

I guess its better than the gaping hole.

Fake Spotlight.. er... Conversion!

People at work have begun to tell me that I have a hole that needs filling... I need to buy a new spotlight for the front bumper! Funds are still a bit tight after summer hols and I'm busy saving for some fancy new brakes so form has follow function in the money department I'm afraid and I can't justify spending up to £80 to sort the light out yet.

I have looked on eBay for some cheap 2nd hand replacements, but it's not just the lamp itself I need, its also the mounting brackets, the bolts etc. One of the bolts has also snapped and is stuck in the hole so that will need drilling out and re-threading too. Long!

But to try and appease the car's fans at work I have instead decided to knock up a fake spotlamp to fill the gap temporarily using, you guessed it, bits and bobs exclusively from the skip at work!

PROCESS:

I started by cutting a spotlamp sized disc out of a piece of clear-plastic insulation-board. This turned out to be the key element to the design as I noticed that the lines down the board mimic the diffuser-lines in the actual light lens. I then cut 1 inch off the end of a wide plastic drainpipe and glued it to the centre of the board to keep the fake light-lens proud of the backplate to match the depth of the real one. To hold the fake lamp onto the backplate I was going to need a fake bracket, so I cut a rough shape out of ABS-plastic [from the mould I used for my carbon wind-diffuser] that was wide enough at the bottom to meet the two screwholes and fixed the fake lamp to it with ally-tape.

Finally I fixed the fake lamp into place, using the original screw holes, with two allen-head alloy bolts and a bit of ally-tape at the top to stop it wobbling.

Bumper Touch Up

Not a lot going on in Scoob world of late as I'm still reeling from the month of MOT, but I've managed get a little done on the bodywork. [I've also got some interesting work in progress involving a lot of carbon-fibre :) coming up.]

The car had obviously been backed into a post of some kind, leaving two lines on the bumper and a lot of the paint has been helped off by the sticker I had on so I thought it was high time to paint it.

I didn't think the lines would need filling, but it turned out they were pushed that little bit into the bumper. I then just rubbed down, primed and painted the corner. A detailed description of this process can be found in my previous posts Painting the Bonnet Lip and Re-Inventing the Wheelarch Pt. I.

Massive improvement, I will have to get around to lacquering it soon. Back of the car looking pretty complete now, although I have a nice carbon wind-diffuser on the way as a finishing touch!